I am in the bus, heading back to Toronto, and my weekend in Danville/Montréal is definitively over now. Full and varied as it was, I am going to try to give you an idea of what I did, since I arrived last Friday. First of all, this wouldn’t have been possible if it wasn’t for Martine and Patrick, the niece of my grandfather and her French husband, who moved to Québec 26 years ago. They were as thrilled to have me over for the weekend as I was to be there! They really are gorgeous people, very busy with the restaurant ‘Le Temps des Cerises’ and their auberge ‘Jefferey’, but they are both equally friendly, always smiling or laughing and very light-hearted. I don’t doubt it is a hard life, but I think they have really found their little spot in life; they are undoubtedly happy.
When I arrived on Friday, Martine was running her little army in the kitchen in the restaurant. Patrick drove me to the auberge, 300m further along the road. I stayed in one of the unoccupied rooms of the auberge, with my own bathroom, internet connection and TV. Extremely cosy and clean, the difference with my room in Toronto couldn’t have been more violent. We had dinner, mainly leftovers from the restaurant, so quite a fine meal!
On Saturday, we did some food shopping for the restaurant in Asbestos, the next village. The name derives from the mine that used to be there, but is now used as a mine for other, less dangerous, materials. We had a nice lunch in the restaurant (Belgian fries! Real ones!). In the afternoon Martine took me and Gus for a walk :). Gus is the family dog, a big hairy fellow, looks a bit overwhelming at first but we made friends within the hour, wouldn’t hurt a fly. Danville is a very cute and very North-American village: wooden houses, shocking Christmas decorations (a wide range going from inflatable Santas and reindeer to flickering and multicolour lights!) and all this covered in a romantic layer of snow. It was absolutely beautiful. On Saturday evening, Martine and Patrick had to work in the restaurant, so I stayed at home, doing some ironing and watching Maman, j’ai rate l’avion, aka Home Alone!
Early morning on Sunday, because we had to go to Montréal (1h30 by car) to distribute ‘les confitures et marmelades’, which Martine makes. Patrick and two of the three daughters, Alexandra and Gaëlle, did some dégustations in several shops in Montréal to get their products on the market. Martine and I covered all of Montréal by car, so I saw everything I read about in Canadian Literature in real life: le quartier juif, the Square Mile, le Vieux Montréal, Rue Ste Catherine, St-Henri and so on. My personal guide Martine, a Belgian in heart, had something interesting to tell about nearly everything, which made me realise that she has really blended in in Canadian and Québecois life. We went to a Christmas tree market, had a nice lunch with Gaëlle and finished our day in the vegetable and fruit market. We drove home, had a really nice meal, I showed them some pictures of Nieuwerkerken and our home and even though we were all dead tired we had a long and entertaining evening.
Monday brought me to Canada’s other side: the natives. 60 km out of Danville there is a reserve and museum of the Abénaki tribe, which Martine thought I had to see. On our way over to Odanak, we visited Albert, the most unusual person I ever met. Albert lives in an extremely old (even to European standards) house, quite in the middle of nowhere. He grows flowers and specific kinds of bushes, which he sells to flower shops in Montréal. When we entered his house, it was as if we passed through a magical time gate that brought us back to the late 1800s. It reminded me a bit of the mining houses, such as the ones in Disneyland, near Big Thunder Mountain :) . Everything was so old, very cosy, small and very rural! I really couldn’t believe my eyes! Extremely intriguing and sobering to see how ‘back to nature’ can bring people so much satisfaction and happiness. We had a cup of coffee and said goodbye to Albert, whom I will most definitely never forget!
We arrived in the reserve and drove through to the museum. Native Reserves are, as most of you probably picture them, NOT a bunch of tepees in a circle and savages running around a fire with tomahawks. They actually look like very normal Canadian villages, a bit smaller and a bit poorer, but other than that, just regular villages. The people are dressed as most Canadians – and I’m afraid that the cliché of the Canadian in a checked outdoor shirt is true – the only things that give away that they are descendants from the first peoples of the land are their faces and raven black hair. The museum gave a good impression of how the different tribes used to live and how things evolved to the present-day situation. There is a lot of discrimination towards Indians and they are considered to be a retarded group. However, efforts are being made to preserve their culture and knowledge, the museum being one of these. Other than that, some tribes make typical souvenirs that are sold in several gift shops in Montréal, the profits of which go largely to the fund of protecting their way of life and culture. I really was impressed to learn about Canada’s past and its efforts to secure its future.
We had lunch in Montréal with Frédérique, the first daughter. We walked a bit, dropped off some products downtown and in the early evening, Martine brought me to Alexandra’s room, where I stayed to visit Montréal. Cathérine, Alex’s roommate, works in a big hotel in the city as a guide for tourists, so we made a list of all the things I wanted to do on Tuesday. If it wasn’t for her, I probably wouldn’t have been able to visit everything that’s worth visiting in one day!
I woke up quite early on Tuesday to have a nice and long day in Québec’s biggest city. The sun was shining and a temperature of -5°, a truly lovely day to visit this city. I felt a very obvious tourist, with my little map and camera, but I didn’t really care! I covered all Montréal, did some shopping on Rue Ste Catherine and by 16h30 I was completely exhausted. I found a very cosy Second Cup, ordered a large latte and just sat in the comfortable couches and wrote a long letter to my grandparents. I had dinner with a friend of a friend (one of my friends in Toronto told one of her friends in Montréal that I would be there) in the city and by 22h30 I was back in the apartment. I packed my bags, watched the end of Cath’s film and went to bed.
After a profound night’s rest I got up quite early to catch my bus, which I am still in, at this very moment! We are halfway there. Every Canadian number/license plate shows what province the car comes from. And of course, this is accompanied with a little slogan (just to let you know, that we just passed a truck that is moving a house!!! An entire house! Prefab, brought to your door !). So, every number plate has a slogan, Ontario’s is Ontario, Yours to discover and Québec’s? Québec, Je me souviens…And I will remember this weekend!